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Jak jsme nevylezli Eiger…

Před několika dny jste na tomto místě mohli sledovat naše snažení v Harlinově cestě v severní stěně Eigeru prostřednictvím kusých informací z SMS. Tady je popis, jak to tam vypadalo v reálu…

Auto před Horáčkovým vchodem se plní čím dál tím víc, Honza stále nosí další a další krámy. Vypadá to, že se stěhuje. Při představě, že by si to někdo vzal na záda mne napadl pouze Schwarzeneger.
Směrem na Grindelwald vyrážíme ve třech, Honza Horáček Horák coby nadějný a mladý horolezec, se svým vybavením by se jistě neztratil na stránkách nějakého exkluzivního katalogu.Honza Hrbáček, kamarád, fotograf (pořád si fotí ty své krajinky) a řidič. No a já - starý a beznadějný, snad ještě horolezec, špatný navigátor, protože při vyprávění mých historek řidič Honza občas zapomene odbočit.

Horáčkovi asi připadalo, že ve Švýcarsku mají moc čisto a tak nám předvedl u jednoho pangejtu takový šavlový tanec, ze kterého jsem měl pocit, že takhle nějak asi rodí chlapi. Jinak pohoda.
V Grindelwaldu jsme až po 21. hodině. Spíme na začátku městečka u informační tabule. Ráno přeparkujeme auto a jdeme zjistit předpověď počasí, cenu a odjezdy zubaček.
Máme dost času a protože je hrozně vedro, vyvalujeme se na parkáči. V kraťasech a do půl těla. Balíme matroš do stěny a i když se snažíme minimalizovat, co se dá, bágly jsou velký a těžký. Mám celkem srandu z Horáčka, když mi v prvním kole vyháže moje Walterky a vymění je za nějaké super lehké dráťáky (úspora váhy) a pak prohlásí, že v goráčích do zubačky  v tom vedru nejde (prý by se na něj lidi divně koukali) a nechává si krátké kalhoty, které pak táhne, jako úplně zbytečnou zátěž stěnou. U pokladny se nám nedaří získat žádnou slevu na zubačku, a tak cesta pro jednoho stojí 25 Franků. To ještě nevíme, že sleva se dá získat na průkaz instruktora ČHS. Nesmi se ovšem říct instruktor, ale BERGFÜHRER. Jízdenka pak stojí pouhých 6,40 Franku. Na Kleine Scheideggu se loučíme s Honzou fotografem a jdeme pod stěnu. Je fakt vedro a Horáček si libuje, že nevyměknul a nešel v Gore. S uspokojením poslouchá jak nadávám, když se potím jak dveře od chlíva.

Sněhu je po kolena, a tak to celkem odsejpá.Těsně pod nástupem je perfektní plošinka na bivak, takže se rozhodujeme zůstat.Trošku bych chtěl vysvětlit nepřesnost jedné zprávy SMS (kterou jsme poslali prostřednictvím kluků na LEZCE). V plánu jsme měli buď NORMÁLKU nebo HARLINA, zvolil jsem Harlina, protože jsem měl informace od Švýcarského kamaráda, že je ve stěně málo ledu a že Harlin by mohl jít. Navíc jsem horní partie stěny už znal z doby, kdy jsme s Jirkou Cídlem dělali první opakování superdirettissimy. Počasí mělo být také dobré, takže, proč nezkusit něco těžšího. Na normálku je vždycky času dost, ale ani ta není zadarmo. Moc dobře si pamatuji jak jsme v normálce s Petrem Štěpánem nouzově bivakovali a kolem nás se valila voda a spousta kamení!

Vaříme a chystáme se ke spánku. Ještě pár SMS. Kluci naše zprávy dávají na net, a tak celý svět ví, kdy a kdo si z nás uprdnul.
Ve 4 hodiny začínáme vařit snídani, s tím, že tak v 5 začneme lízt. V půl páté zjišťujeme, že je ještě pořád tma a že když je tma tak se spí. A tak jsme zaspali až do sedmi.

První délka patří k těm těžším. Začínám lézt s batohem, ale po pár metrech ho nechávám ve sněhu a až na štand lezu bez něj. Horáček se pak stará, aby se bágl při vytahování nezašprcl. Řve na mně, že je to úplně skvělý, protože jak táhnu bágl nahoru, tak na něj shazuju plno sněhu a on si nenasadil kapuci, a tak má sníh až za trenkama. No a pak to jde ráz na ráz, jak říká Horáček. Snažím se mu připomenout, že letošní leden, ve kterém jsme spolu nalezli cca 3 km v ledu, tomu dost přispěl. Horáček je perfektní spolulezec i kámoš přesto, že jsem starý skoro jako jeho táta se kterým jsem dříve také lezl. Jen mne někdy ranní, když po délce, kde si  pořádně hrábnu jen řekne, jo šlo to. Tady taky, v mixech se cítím jako doma, ale tenhle ledovo sněhový žlábek mi dal zabrat. Motyky v něm celkem drží, ale dávat šrouby by bylo snad jen pro legraci. Podaří se mi vytočit celou šedesátku našeho lana bez jediného zajištění. Vždycky, když už to vypadalo na led kam by šlo něco zavrtat, zjistil jsem, že je to jen taková ledová plotna, kterou když pořádně kopnu udělám díru skrz. Spíš se vznáším než lezu. No a po tahové délce, pyšný sám na sebe, mi Horáček suše oznámí: "Šlo to…". Nedá mi to a ptám se: "Ty bys to vyvedl?" Opět suše mi odpoví: "Jedině kdybych se zbláznil a navíc bych se u toho posral…". Mé ješitnosti je učiněno zadost.

Horáček si rychle zvyká na to, že v Eigeru je základem pořádný štand a že mezi štandy už taky nemusí najít místo k zajištění. A tak to odsejpá. Délky nepočítáme, protože v tak velký stěně to stejně nemá cenu. Občas blbej sníh, občas dobrej sníh. Občas blbej led, občas dobrej led. Občas skála, občas mix. Až pod okna lezeme bez jištění, jen tutové štandy. Mám takovou teorii, že kdo chce lézt v Eigeru těžké cesty, nemusí ve skalách práskat zrovna desítky, ale měl by umět přelézt sedmičky sólo. Třeba Údolku na Želvu v Labáku, nebo Starou cestu na Vojtěcha a když tohle nedokáže netvrdím, že nepřeleze Eiger, ale určitě se tam pěkně vybojí. Na Superdiretce byly nejtěžší kroky asi tak za 8 na písku, ale třeba i dvacet metrů nad nezajištěným štandem...
Pod oknama jsme v čase, který zrovna není dobrý na to pustit se do skalního výšvihu, ale taky je celkem dost brzy na bivak. Rozhodujeme se pro dobrý bivak, to znamená odtraverzovat asi tři délky doleva do skalní jeskyně. Bivakovat ve štole za okny je problém. Jednak k nim dolézt není jen tak (pod okny je vybetonovaný sokl), jsou zavřená (musí si vás někdo všimnout a otevřít) a pak je to takové divné, jít si lehnout do tepla. Takže se používají jen v nouzi. Traverz je celkem výživnej. Cepíny na sedák, rukavice dolů a opatrně, ani nedýchat (tak to byl postřeh Horáčka).

Jeskyně je super. Určitě se do ní vyplatilo natraverzovat. Je dost hluboká a prostorná. Člověk se v ní může odvázat a sundat sedák aniž by se musel bát, že se rázem ocitne o 700 metrů níž. Horáček tedy chvíli vyhrožoval, že bude spát navázanej, ale je to jen zvyk. Vaříme, je klid, pohoda a romantika. Horáček mi oznamuje, že by mne teď vyměnil za nějakou pěknou babu. Tak usínám v pohodě, že je normální, já bych ho za tu babu v tu chvíli vyměnil taky.

Ráno je zataženo a honí se mraky. Čeká nás čtyř délkový traverz pod okny do místa, kde se začíná lézt 1. skalní bariera. Z oken koukají turisti a fotí si nás, magory ve stěně. V traverzu nad náma z bariery visí několik fixů z jiných cest a i z nějakého utíkání ze stěny. Konečně jsme u štandu naší cesty do skalní bariery. Štand je perfektní - tři nýty Petzl. Visí k němu vybledlý a mechem porostlý fix. Kus nahoře je na několika místech vidět úplně prodřený oplet. Horáček se vrhá k fixu s ohromným nadšením hrnout dál. Pomáhá si fixem, ale jistí a chová se jako by lezl jako prvolezec. Díky šedesátimetrovému lanu se dostáváme na místo které odpovídá podle techničáku od Pedra Bednaříka z roku 1976, třetí délce v tomto skalním stupni. Je stále zataženo, občas spadne nějaká vločka. Fouká. Bojuji s oběma báglama k Horáčkovi a snažím se vzpomenout, komu jsem půjčil své Petzly a kdože mi je nevrátil, protože ty mrchy co jsem si musel narychlo vzít sice jako Petzl vypadají, ale jsou perfektní jen jako zátěž. Dostávám se k Horáčkovi a se mnou i oba batohy. Dál se jeví cesta logickým směrem, jsou vidět i skobky. Přemýšlíme jestli jít do lezeček, ale rapidně se začíná kazit počasí. Na mobilu zjišťujeme aktuelní počasí. Ze všech informaci i od kluků z Česka přichází informace, které se nám odvíjejí přímo před očima. Jen jsme informováni, že to jen tak nepřejde. Počasí se kazí víc a víc. Stěnou se hrnou prachové lavinky sněhu, který začal padat a fouká jak o život. Nevím co teď. Rozhodování je těžký. Lízt nahoru nebo ještě bezpečně slanit. Rozhodujeme se pro druhou variantu. Jak řekl Petr Štěpán: "Hora nemá nožičky, neuteče". A my se vrátíme třeba za rok.
Slaňujeme a traverzujeme pod okna. Chlapíček pořád kouká a jedno okno nám otevírá. Kolmým ledem lezeme dovnitř. Sundat a sbalit matroš, pár fotek a hrr do vláčku. Dole v Grindelwaldu lehce prší a je mlha, že kopec není skoro vidět.
Večer se jako na potvoru vyjasňuje. Je krásný západ slunce a tak fotíme jak o život. Ráno je už na štěstí zase zataženo a my sedíme v autě a valíme směrem domů.
   
Libor REBEL Hroza, Honza HORÁČEK Horák

PS: Článek o našem snažení v severní stěně Eigeru vyjde také v horolezeckém časopise CAO News!

Libor Hroza & Jan Horák   [úpravy] 18:21 20.03.2002Tisk 

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Nový komentář 

 Máte moje uznání...
Musím přiznat, že bylo docela příjemné zprostředkovávat Vaše snažení ve stěně přes SMS na stránkách LEZCE.

Ovšem stejně mi největší radost udělala až ta poslední „esemeska“: – Jsme v dole v bezpečí…
Zapsal: Houba, 18:31:31 20.03.2002
 Drama on line
Pro me to bylo hrozne poutavy, stale jsem jen sledoval postup a shanel o Eigeru dalsi a dalsi informace na netu. Clanek je zajimavej moc a je takovou dramatickou perlou, mezi clanky o slunecnem pobytu na Mallorce a padani z dvoumetrovych kamenu. Prozili jste drama a ja ho prozil trochu s vama. Dik za to a doufam ze to priste vyjde.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 10:04:30 21.03.2002
 Co máte v plánu na léto?
Zdar Pardi. Se zájmem jsem si přečetl Vaše vyprávění. Docela by mě zajímalo, jestli se někam chystáte v létě nebo jestli se znovu pokusíte o Harlina. A také, jestli to bude opět "on line".
Zapsal: Doktor, 14:47:25 24.03.2002
 Díky
Sedím v práci u kompu, prstem se dloubu v nose a jsem nasranej na celý svět, ale vám děkuji, váš článek mě probral k životu, zase jednou je na Lezci článek, který stojí za to si přečíst. Díky
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PÉŘOVÝ SPACÁK WARMPEACE SOLITAIRE 500 - 195 L | Hledám spolulezce | Koupím koule na posilování | LS Olympus Mons EVO | Expediční kalhoty RAK | Mammut goráčovka | Velký mágopytel Petzl Sakab | LEZEČKY | Jizerky apod. | Prodám přilby k lezení |

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