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Vápno v Herkulových lázní

2008

Po předchozích návštěvách oblasti Baile Herculane v Banátu (jižní Rumunsko, nedaleko Dunaje) jsme se rozhodli uspořádat do místních vápencových masívů letní horotábor našeho oddílu HO TATRAN HAVÍŘOV.

Jako termín jsme vybrali přelomový víkend října a listopadu a s vírou v dobré počasí jsme dodávkou vyrazili vstříc jižním krajům.
Na webu jsme sehnali průvodčíka pro tuhle oblast a k tomu trochu orientačních znalostí z minulých návštěv – nic nemohlo ohrozit naše spokojené popolízání.





Díky evropským penězům byla rozkopaná celá silnice z Temešváru na jih a proto jsme na semaforech stavby proseděli valnou část dopoledne prvního dne s vědomím, že dneska už to na žádné velké lezení nebude.



Mapa na Lezci



Vyklopili jsme věci na ubytku a před tím než se (jako každý večer) najíme v hospodě César a naložíme se do Horkých pramenů místních lázní (7 izvoare calde) tak míříme za hotel Roman na menší skalní sektory Fareza a Skorpiony s jejich 35m vysokými stěnami. Jsme hotoví z cesty a proto jen cvičně blbneme na spodních částech zdejších šestek a sedmiček s vědomím, že zítra to musí být lepší.


Taky že ano, druhý i třetí den vyrážíme do oblasti Cariera  v soutěsce Prolazului , kde je jedno z nejlepších lezení v celém Rumunsku. Kvalitně, i když někdy nepříliš nově odjištěné cesty nabízí lezení od pětek výše v nejrůznějších délkách. Úžasné je hlavně to, že místní vápno není vůbec olezené, ale může se pochlubit dokonce krasovým mikroreliéfem prstových dírek, štěrbin a lištiček. Je tak ostré, že trpí lezečky, prsty ale trhá se i oblečení – ve spárách a komínech.



 


Oblast Herculane platí za nejlepší kombinaci horského lezení a sportovních cest. Najdete zde technické problémy na 8m stěnce, ale také výstup na 5 lanových délek. Charakter lezení vám přiblížím na několika vylezených cestách, které nadchnou hlavně středně výkonné lezce (5-6 UIAA). Kdo nevytáhne pětku, nemá zde co dělat, ale horním směrem je obtížnost neomezená – najdeme zde širokou škálu devítek i desítek. V obtížnosti 5-6 si zde ale zalezete královsky a hlavně vícedélkové cesty dělané v 70. a 80. letech jsou právě v této obtížnosti.
Krátké cesty sportovního charakteru. Tak tady je lákavá zapeklitost v cestičce Talk about your life, což je pětplusková delikátní záležitost, kterou nepřelezli mnozí pokořitelé místních sedmiček. Pracovní název cesty zněl Gynekologická, vzhledem ke tvaru těch několika málo dvouprstových dírek na cestě vzhůru J, které nebylo možno minout, jelikož byly jedinými chyty i stupy. Ve vedlejším sektoru jsme si užívali pětkových a šestkových cest Olive a Bestia s vedlejší sedmou Myosotis, poctivé dvacetimetrové výšvihy na krásném vápnu. I když byl již listopad teploty hrubě přes 20°C umožňovaly krásné lezení. Díky sportovnímu charakteru zajištění není problém cesty tahat na prvním konci lana. Pod známou vícedélkovou záležitostí jsme pak pro čekající vytáhli cesty Stalker a Tangram (sedm a šest), kde dostaly zabrat prstíky i rovnováha.



 


Dostáváme se k vícedélkovým, slušně zajištěným cestám, které jsou hlavním lákadlem oblasti. První den v soutěsce jsme si dali cestu Creasta Capitanului) Kapinánův pilíř (4 délky, V+), která má štandy zdálky označené černými borovicemi, díky kterým má oblast statut národního parku (NP Domogled – Valea Cernei).
Vyrovnaná cesta s přece jen o něco těžší třetí délkou nabízí 180m dlouhou linii vpravdě horského charakteru a výhledy, které se vám dostanou, berou dech – dno soutěsky pod vámi a protější stěny na dosah. Cesta začíná zapeklitě píďalkovitým pohybem v otevřeném komíně, co rve oblečení na kusy, ale jinak to nejde a opravdu zjistíte, že vypadnout není možné.





Některé skoby jsou rezavé až běda, ale jejich hustota a střídání s novými boráky spíše způsobuje problém nedostatku jistících prostředků (na vícedélkové cesty počítejte i s 15 jistícími body – štandy a pak na 50m délku tak 10 jištění; sada 10 expresek nestačí a polezete každou délku na dvakrát). Jakmile jste již vysoko nad dnem doliny, začíná být každý exponovaný úsek problém a vyklánět se nad stometrovou propastí na skalní cestě není každý zvyklý. Z bytelné police začíná klíčová třetí délka – otevřený spárokomín, kde nevíte, jestli do něj vlézt celí, nebo jej brát z venku. Lezení je ale na jistotu a závěr už patří rozsedlině k vrcholu. Na slanění počítejte se dvěma lany, nebo se uslaňujete.


 

 


Další velmi populární cestou je Creasta Vantului (Větrný pilíř, 6-) a sousední Hornul Vantului (Větrný roh, 5+), které mají spodní délku společnou a rozdělují se až na polici pod druhou délkou. Spodní délka je jednodušší a vede na širokou polici, odkud začíná ta těžká druhá délka na vrcholek masívu. Creasta Vantului vede přes šestkový převis, nad kterým je ovšem velmi řídké jištění a dvacetimetrový dolez není nic k podcenění. Na trase oblézáte celou vzrostlou borovici, kterou necháte hluboko pod sebou. Výhledy jsou opět famózní.


 

 


Vedlejší cesta je o něco lehčí, hlavně nevede v žádném převisu, ale neustále kolmé skále s proměnlivou četností chytů.
Vícedélkových cest nabízí oblast mnoho, ale za dva dny se více jako tři stihnout stejně nedají. Lezecká oblast jistě stojí za doporučení, i když je lepší tam jet s někým, kdo se vyzná, jinak ztratíte spoustu času hledáním cest v labyrintu soutěsek a skalních věží. Když tak pište autorovi.


 

 


Zdroje:
Stránky oddílu HO Tatran



Michal Kleslo   [úpravy] 06:57 13.11.2008Tisk 

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Komentáře

Nový komentář 

 pruvodce
dobre, neco podobneho je bulharska Vraca - par desitek sportovnich jednodelkovek, par set horsky zajistenych vicedelkovek. Sportovky jsou vetsinou plotny a stejne nevojezdene. Bulhari nelezou.
K Herkulovym laznim: Nedal bys sem link na ty pruvodce, nebo nedal bys ten stazeny pruvodce sam nekam na web (treba na vase oddilove stranky)?
Zapsal: , 09:43:13 13.11.2008
 Vraca
nedal bys sem prosím link na průvodce na Vracu? Díky.
Zapsal: Honza Hrb, 11:32:53 13.11.2008
 Jiřina
My jsme tam byli před cca 5 lety a mám pocit, jak kdyby jsme byli asi úplně jinde. Co si z toho pamatuji jsou nástupy suťoviskem a trním a pak celkem rozlámaná skála. Asi jsme měli smůlu a nevybrali jsme tam ty správné oblasti, navíc nám tam celou dobu pršelo. Ale pivo tam mají dobré :-)
Zapsal: , 12:23:00 13.11.2008
 Vraca - link
Vraca: http://www.bgclimbing.com/ cdb.php?f=place info&idPlace=1 (odstran mezery)
je tam pekne lezeni. co jsem lezl, byla pevna skala, ale jisteni ve vicedylkach jen sve (resp. skoby ve stene). A obcas pomerne zarostle - uz jsem psal, ze Bulhari jsou pomerne lini, takze neni, kdo by to prubezne cistil. Na tech strankach je u jednotlivych cest dost obsahly popis, mj. i o tom jestli je cesta oblibena a lezena (to je relativni :-) , mozna jste Jirino vlezli do neceho uplne zapomenuteho. Na centralni stene to vypadalo docela pevne vsechno. Jo a funguje tam Alpski dom s ubytovanim myslim kolem 12 E. Kdyby bylo hnusne. Jinak se tam bezne stanuje - zdarma, ale hned vedle silnice. Cca 10 minut pesky je na kraji mesta fungl novy supermarket, na druhou stranu (proti proudu) asi 5 min je pramen s pitnou vodou.
Zapsal: , 12:54:19 13.11.2008
 Průvodčík
Já ho našel asi před 3 lety na webu, vytiskl a od té doby nehledal, ale podle hesla Herculane climbing topo by měl jít najít.
Zkus tohle
http:// www.fralpinism.ro /topo /herculane% 20v3.1% 20draft (beta).pdf
Zapsal: Michal, 15:09:57 13.11.2008
 Jiřina
Můj komentář patřil Herkulovým lázním. Lezli jsme tam asi ve 3 oblastech a všude to samé - staré jištění, občas volné kameny. Ale třeba jsme si fakt blbě vybrali. Tenkrát nás tam nalákal jeden známej na pěkný ostrý vápno,panenskou přírodu a vím, že jsem byla dost zklamaná...
Zapsal: , 17:49:25 13.11.2008
 Herculane
Jéée byli jsme tam cestou dom z Banátu v "lázních", ale trefili jsme jen bazén s jednou ledovou sprchou uprosřed, a to se holky těšili,...
Pěkné místo, mírně z ruky, snad se tam někdy dostanu i na lezení
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